History Trip in Jeju City's Old Downtown — Jejumok-Gwana, Gwandeokjeong, Ohyeondan, Samseonghyeol

Jeju City's old downtown has long been called "Seongan" (inside the fortress), because it was surrounded by a sturdy fortress wall. Historic sites remain here, including the Jejumok-Gwana Government Office and Gwandeokjeong Hall, the center of Jeju's administration in the Joseon Dynasty, as well as Ohyeondan Altar and Samseonghyeol Shrine. If you'd like to trace the island's old stories on an autumn trip to Jeju, these are places worth exploring together.

Jejumok-Gwana Government Office — The Site Where Jeju Was Governed in the Joseon Dynasty

The Jejumok-Gwana Government Office was the center of rule over the Jeju region in the Joseon Dynasty, and its main government facilities stood in the surrounding area, which includes today's Gwandeokjeong Hall. In the Tamna Kingdom era the Seongjucheong stood here, and from the Joseon Dynasty onward this was the site of the government office where the Jeju moksa (magistrate) oversaw administration.

The government buildings were heavily torn down during the Japanese colonial period, and it is said that apart from Gwandeokjeong Hall, traces of them were hard to find. Jeju City carried out four rounds of excavation from 1991 to 1998 and confirmed the location and scale of building sites such as the Dongheon (administration hall) and Naea (residence). After review of old records such as the Tamna Sullyeokdo and historical research by experts, restoration work was completed in December 2002.

The Jejumok-Gwana Government Office has buildings such as Oedaemun, the main gate leading to the government buildings; Yeonhuigak, where the moksa carried out his duties; and Gyullimdang, where people played the geomungo (a Korean zither), played baduk or composed poems. You can also see Manggyeongnu, which is said to have served both as a place to look toward Seoul, where the king resided, and honor his grace, and as a watchtower for keeping watch on Japanese pirates. Because each building had a different purpose, it suits travelers who are curious about how a Joseon-era local government office was organized.

Gwandeokjeong Hall — One of the Oldest Buildings in Jeju

Gwandeokjeong Hall was an auxiliary building of the Jejumok-Gwana Government Office and is one of the oldest buildings in Jeju. It is said that Sin Suk-cheong built it in the 30th year of King Sejong's reign (1448) to use as a training ground for soldiers, and its name comes from a phrase in the Book of Rites, "Sajasoi gwanseongdeogya (射者所以觀盛德也)," meaning "archery is a way of seeing lofty and admirable virtue."

The present building dates from repairs made in 1969, and its original construction method is presumed to date from around the 17th century. It is five kan (bays) wide at the front and four kan deep at the side, topped with a hip-and-gable roof (paljakjibung), and open on all four sides. Murals such as Sipjangsaengdo (Ten Longevity Symbols), Jeokbyeokdaecheopdo (Battle of Red Cliffs) and Daesuryeopdo (Great Hunt) are painted on the beams; the artist is unknown, but they are regarded as quite fine works. The signboard was originally written by Prince Anpyeong but was lost in a fire, and the current calligraphy is known to be the work of Yi San-hae, who served as chief state councilor under King Seonjo.

From the Joseon Dynasty through the Japanese colonial period and into modern times, Gwandeokjeong Hall and its surroundings were the political, administrative and cultural center of Jeju, where major government offices were gathered. Gwandeokjeong Square is also where the March 1st rally of 1947, called the fuse that set off Jeju 4·3, turned into an incident. We recommend it to those who want to take in the building's eaves and murals and also look back on the modern history the square has witnessed.

Ohyeondan Altar — An Altar to Five Sages and an Old Fortress Site

Ohyeondan Altar honors five people who were exiled to Jeju or came to serve there during the Joseon Dynasty and contributed to the development of learning in the region. The five are Kim Jeong, Song In-su, Kim Sang-heon, Jeong On and Song Si-yeol. After Gyullim Seowon, the academy that enshrined their memorial tablets, was torn down under the decree abolishing seowon academies, the altar was set up on its old site.

Within the altar grounds remain the characters "Jeungjubyeongnip," carved into rock from Song Si-yeol's calligraphy, and the Jeongnyeo Yuheobi (steles marking places of exile) of Kim Jeong and Song Si-yeol. If you are interested in stories of exile and scholarship, it's fun to look for the rock inscription and the steles one by one.

Right next to Ohyeondan Altar is the site of Jeju's old fortress. It is not known exactly when Jeju Fortress was built, but it is presumed that walls built in the Tamna Kingdom era were repaired during the Goryeo Dynasty and used for defense against Japanese pirates. Today, about 150 meters of the Namsugak section has been restored. There is also a story that many tangerine and yuja (citron) trees were planted around the walls, so when the tangerines ripened in autumn, the area around the fortress was at the peak of autumn color.

Samseonghyeol Shrine — Three Holes That Tell of Tamna's Beginnings

Samseonghyeol Shrine refers to the three holes from which Goeulla, Yangeulla and Bueulla — passed down as the ancestors of the Jeju people, that is, the founders of the Go, Yang and Bu clans — are said to have emerged from the ground. Located in Jeju's old downtown, it preserves the myth of the three divine men that became the origin of the Tamna Kingdom.

According to the myth, the three divine men married three princesses of the kingdom of Byeongnang who came from the eastern sea, began farming with the seeds of five grains and the livestock brought with them, and laid the foundations of the Tamna Kingdom. The holes are arranged in the shape of the Chinese character 品, and it is said that only one connects to the sea while only traces remain of the others. There is also a story that rain does not pool and snow does not pile up in the three holes.

Within the grounds are Samseongjeon, which enshrines the memorial tablets of the three divine men, an exhibition hall and a video room. The exhibition hall introduces the myth of the three divine men through dioramas, and in the video room you can watch an animation about Jeju's myths and history. If you want to learn the myth before seeing the three holes, one option is to stop by the exhibition hall and video room first.

What to Check Before You Go

Here are the addresses of each place.

• Jejumok-Gwana Government Office: 제주특별자치도 제주시 관덕로 25
• Gwandeokjeong Hall: 제주특별자치도 제주시 관덕로 19
• Ohyeondan Altar: 제주특별자치도 제주시 오현길 61
• Jeju Fortress: 제주특별자치도 제주시 오현길 56
• Samseonghyeol Shrine: 제주특별자치도 제주시 삼성로 22

Information that can change, such as opening hours and conditions of use, should be checked once more with the Jeju Tourism Organization before your visit.

If your trip is about visiting government halls and pavilions, altars and mythic sites one by one, choose a car in advance with Friends Rent-a-Car once your travel dates are set, and leave plenty of time to spend in the old downtown.